Epoxy resin has a special place among makers, crafters, and artists. Its glass-like shine and solid finish work wonders for jewelry, artwork, or even tabletops. Getting that clear resin to match your favorite color isn’t rocket science, but it’s more than just dumping paint into the mix. Acrylic paint sits on many craft tables, so it’s often the first thing folks reach for when they want to add color to resin.
Epoxy resin combines chemicals that cure into a solid mass. The reaction depends on the right ratio and pure ingredients. Tossing a heavy paint like acrylic into the mixture will change the chemistry a little. Some paints have a lot of water or fillers. When too much water meets resin, it messes up the cure. Cloudy streaks, sticky surfaces, or sometimes, no hardening at all. I’ve experienced this in my garage, thinking I’d shortcut and mix in more than a dab. The piece came out soft, and I had to scrap it.
Using just a small amount of acrylic paint—think less than 5% of the resin volume—keeps the mix workable. Squeeze a drop or two of high-quality acrylic paint for every ounce of resin and stir it in well. Paint with a thicker consistency (heavy body) tends to cloud the mix or leave specks. Fluid acrylics blend better since they’re concentrated and have less water. Don’t reach for old, crusty paint. Fresh paint means fewer clumps and no bits ruining your finish.
Mix thoroughly, scraping the sides and bottom. If any unmixed color hides out, it will show up as a weird blotch along your project. Clear resin lets light pass through, so keep the paint amount low to keep the resin bright. Too much paint and the resin loses its shine, taking on more of a muddy look.
People ask about using regular house paint or latex, and the answer from my own batch tests is a strong no. The binders and extra water found in cheap paints don’t mix well with epoxy. The result? Soft, frothy, or weak creations that fail under any kind of wear. Artists and manufacturers often report that only acrylic paint (or pigment made for resin) balances color depth and reliable hardening. This isn’t just craft wisdom—it’s a lesson in how resin and pigment interact. Factories designing colored resins use special additives or pigments because industrial needs demand reliability, something hobby paints rarely deliver.
If you’ve overdone the paint, mix in a fresh batch of clear resin. Pour the thick, over-colored batch into a measured mold and see how it cures before wasting more material. If tiny bubbles pop up, a heat gun or gentle torch can pull them out, but don’t linger or you’ll scorch the surface. Work in a warm, dry spot. Humidity drags out curing and increases surface risk.
Plenty of pigment pastes and powders exist that bond directly with resin. They cost a bit more but prove worth it for critical work—high-gloss tabletops or unique jewelry. I’ve switched over to micas and professional resin dyes for anything that matters. Less risk, more shine, and zero cloudiness.
Those determined to use acrylic paint can get good results by following the rules and testing small batches. That approach has saved me from waste more times than I can count. Experiment with care, stick to trusted supplies, and your resin projects will turn heads instead of ending up in the trash pile.
