Anyone flipping through Instagram or wandering a craft store has probably seen how resin art catches the eye. Those smooth, glossy shapes look great on their own, but color gives them life. Acrylics offer bright, bold splashes of paint, so it’s no wonder people want to use them on resin. The trick lies in getting acrylics to really stick and shine without peeling or looking streaky.
I messed up a few resin projects in the early days because I thought you could just slap paint on and be done. Acrylic paint needs a little help to hold onto such a slick surface. Think of it like painting a wall; you wouldn't leave dust, oil, or fingerprints. Resin usually comes out of the mold shiny or slippery. Washing with soap and water helps, but I always give it a light sanding afterward. Something like 220-grit sandpaper gives the surface a texture that acrylic paint grabs onto.
There’s a big difference between the watery acrylics from a dollar store and paints with strong pigment from an art supply shop. Thicker, artist-quality acrylics tend to cling better, cover faster, and last longer. Thin paints can bead up, which looks messy. I learned that the hard way one Christmas, watching a homemade ornament turn into a streaky mess overnight. Quality matters more with resin than with canvas or paper.
You can paint straight onto sanded resin, and it’ll work for small jobs. Larger projects or anything you want to last—like jewelry or coasters—need a primer. A simple white acrylic gesso or a spray-on plastic primer evens out the surface and gives the acrylic paint the best shot at lasting through use and sunlight. I usually use a cheap foam brush and go slow, covering every edge. Gesso dries fast, too, so it won’t slow you down.
Putting on thick, globby coats usually leads to cracks and frustration. Thin coats dry smooth and even. I like to start with lighter colors, let each coat dry, and build up the color until I get the look I want. With resin, patience pays off. It’s tempting to rush, especially when painting something detailed or colorful, but letting each layer dry fully—at least half an hour—gives a smoother finish. Use a fine-tipped brush for detail or a soft brush for larger surfaces.
Paint fades, chips, and scratches. Resin feels tough—but once you paint it, the paint becomes the weak point. I always finish with a clear sealer. An acrylic spray works well, but some people pour on another thin layer of clear resin for a deep-gloss finish. Either way, that topcoat protects your hard work from keys, sunlight, or the occasional spilled drink. No sense in skipping this step if you spent hours painting.
Painting resin isn’t much different from painting anything else, but it rewards anyone willing to prep and seal carefully. The whole process lets anyone—kids, beginners, life-long crafters—turn a blank resin form into a bright, colorful object that lasts. Taking the time to do each step right takes patience, but seeing your ideas come to life is worth it. Mistakes do happen, but most can be sanded and painted over. That’s how you figure out what works for you and make something with your own style.
